Yeah, what, 40, 50 years ago? You could just jump on a bike and nobody cared.|
Then enough idiots died that people started caring. I'd be quite surprised if anyone here had a licence that old!
Yeah. You should inform whoever is in charge of your finances that a cost associated with an R1 will soon be appearing?
Who rides a motorcycle? • Page 103
Some people are saying it could be the option to ride a trike.
I am only 29 lol. Just had a license renewal though.
GoatApocalypse 5,400 posts
Seen 47 minutes ago
Registered 8 years ago
I'm looking into the Direct Access.
I rode a 125 for a couple of years before getting knocked off in January 2011; haven't been on one since. Umming and ahhing about whether to try a CBT again first, to see if I can cope.
I've been driving and riding a pedal bike on the road, so I reckon I'll be fine, but maybe jumping into an intensive 7-day course isn't the best idea...
First question, how old are you? Because the govt has got a major fucking boner stopping young uns getting themselves killed. I mean fun. Some fun.
@AboutHalfaStevas So is this standard for license now? Surely I need to takes test?
urban 13,060 posts
Seen 3 days ago
Registered 15 years ago
@GoatApocalypse Regardless of whether or not you're looking into Direct Access, just go do you're CBT, you've got to do it anyway so you might as well do it and see how you feel before proceeding with buying a whole package.
My advice I always give everyone is:
Buy a 125, spend 3 months minimum getting used to being the victim on the roads. And get practice for the big bike test. You can get a 125 for a grand to practice on. Considering a big bike test is nearly a grand anyway I figure more practice before the test is worthwhile. Then sell the 125 and get your money back.
Do the big bike test.
Get a 600 cc odd naked bike. Hornet / CB650F / Street Triple / Bandit. Love the power upgrade and get used to being in control.
After a year or two get the bike you really want.
Does take a few years, but I genuinely feel the safest progression. It is dangerous, and you WILL fall off and break something at some point. Best to do the falling on the way to that 200MPH fireblade than kill yourself too soon.
/will kill myself when I get a fireblade next year.
That's great advice, the only (perhaps mental) bit I'd add to it is the longer you spend as the victim the better. In fact, if I made the rules (and it's a shame, but I don't; go figure), I'd force every cunt to do a minimum of 2 years on a 125 before they were even allowed so much as walking across fucking roads. It drills an awareness into you that you just don't forget - even with a two tonne shell to protect you.
@solidsneek: no. It's not normal. As I said, I've seen it happen before; in that case it was an error, and it sounds like it is with you too. I suspect it's because the useless fucks at DVLA keep changing what the categories mean (see my second link). Whether you see it as an error in your favour depends on whether you want to go buy a cheap Hayabusa for the lols, or... maybe not kill yourself, and contact the DVLA to make sure your licence is all correct. Your call.
The only problem with the 125 is that counterintuitively the safest bike is probably the 600cc range. (IMO etc, everyone has their own views)
When in trouble (and you will be) on a 125 your options are to brake or swerve. On a bigger bike your options are brake, swerve or accelerate your way out of danger.
And damn me I have used that a lot. Seeing that car changing lanes without noticing you... that little twist of the throttle and suddenly your are ahead of it is literally a lifesaver. Not so much in London, but when you get on A roads or motorways...
I am seriously a fan of the CB650F. Does 130 on the nmotorways, so you have the fun. But you won't accidentally wheelie when pulling away or lose control like you would on a sporty bike. The lower revs help for filtering and your wrists don't get sore if stuck in traffic. Fuel economy is okay (10 miles to the litre in real life) and I will always recommend a naked bike for a newbie. You will drop your bike, and spending £150 on a new clutch and wing mirror and polishing out some scratches is a shit load cheaper than that £200 for a plastic fairing alone on a R6 or similar.
Oh, I wasn't forcing the 125 on everyone because it was safer. If anything we could do to lose a few along the way.
Back in my day I had the option after getting my car licence to get a full bike. Licence without having to do the written test.
I did a (i think) 3 day intensive with the test at the end. I was already riding a Honda CB 125 Twin.
So I was very lucky to get all my tests done before the written test and driver awareness tests and stuff.
I sort of agree with the idea of using a low power bike and gradually upgrading. I went from my 125 to my CB-1 (a Honda jap imported 400cc bike), then a long gap between ownership. I then restarted on a low power NC 750 which I had a year until it was stolen, and now have a Yamaha MT-09 which if I'd owned when I was younger would have killed me.
So yeah, good idea.
So. My bike fucking hates me.
For a start, the battery went flat while I was at a meeting for only 2 hrs. Luckily this was in a hotel, so I had somewhere nice to sit while I was rescued, but wtf was that about? I think the hazard lights could have accidentally(?) been turned and left on. Could this really knacker your battery enough to not start?
Then, when I did get the fucking thing started, on the way home somehow some material got stuck in my back brake. Though it felt a bit...light on breaking. Then when I got off I found a thin strip of safety belt like material all mangled up in between the rear break pad and the disc. Can't get it out, so it's probably going to have to go to the shop to have that dismantled.
How much will that cost do we think? Also, shall I just set fire the bastard in a ditch because fuck you bike?
The dealer told me my bike will run flat if I over-rotate the ignition past the 'lock'... It has some sort of 'parking lights' mode or something.
Maybe that's it chops?
Edited by Carlo at 21:24:53 04-09-2018
Edited by Carlo at 22:32:20 04-09-2018
Timmywimmywoo 25 posts
Seen 8 hours ago
Registered 8 years ago
Yeah that's the easiest way to drain your battery Ė†it's usually one 'notch' anticlockwise (ie to the left) past the steering lock. Left my 1198 like that for an hour the day I bought it and luckily it started okayÖ but it's given me problems in the past on previous bikes. I quickly got into the habit of turning the key all the way anticlockwise to lock the steering, and then one notch clockwise again.
That sounds like a really.... dumb design decision.
Had a quick look at my owners manual (honda nc750x), and couldn't see anything similar to that. And the engine did just start absolutely fine when I tested it after left for another few hours again.
Just so weird. Never did anything like that in the past, and I'd been riding it for about an hour or so all told over two trips that morning without any starting issues as well.
Yeah I can confirm a stock nc 750 has nothing that would let your battery drain without the ignition key on it. It doesn't have that 'parking' mode either
You got trackers, USB chargers, anything like that added to it?
Edited by Carlo at 23:32:55 04-09-2018
Big of googling indicates that a few people have had a random, one-off battery drains with their NCs, including one who had it happened with the hazard lights in the "on" position. The lights didn't come on, but the battery drained.
Exactly same happened with me today.
Nasty 4,817 posts
Seen 3 hours ago
Registered 15 years ago
Rear caliper on my nc700s was fairly straightforward to remove when I was fitting new pads. Take the plunge and have ago yourself?
Edited by Nasty at 10:23:56 05-09-2018
I just had the exact same problem on my nc700 yesterday. I left it for 15 minutes and it wouldnít start. Half a turn of the starter, the lights dimmed and that was that. Had to take a cab and fetch my car and some cables. After it started off the carsís battery, I revved it a couple of times, drove literally 300 m and itís been starting fine the 5 times I did it since (well, Iíll see in a minute if thatís still the case as Iím about to leave work).
The battery is 6 yo and I I was sure it was on its way out, but itís very erratic.
It has happened to me before, but always in the garage after itís not been ridden for a bit, never out in town like this
Salaman 23,545 posts
Seen 6 hours ago
Registered 15 years ago
If it's 6 years old, go get a new battery.
You will have to soon anyway, might as well get it out of the way.
6 years for a bike battery? Crazy talk. Unless you ride it every day you should be looking to replace at half that. Possibly even if you do.
They ain't anywhere near as robust/beefy as car batteries.
Well, it starts fine now...
Oh, and I do ride it practically every day from at least may through september and beyond if the weather holds. Only take the car out if itís raining.
But I do realise I should get a new one.
All of which is, as I said, kinda moot anyway, as you should consider switching in a new one at about 3 years. There's a reason they're about the third of the price of car batteries.
As for mysterious sudden draining batteries: anyone got heated grips?
Edited by AboutHalfaStevas at 17:34:58 05-09-2018
AboutHalfaStevas wrote:Huh? Itís more expensive than the one for my car.
There's a reason they're about the third of the price of car batteries.
New battery every 3 years? Really? Ive never done that.
I'm a bit twitching about tacking the breakpads myself because I never know what what needs tightening to a specific torque and what doesn't. On my duevillie I had a proper manual. I don't have one for the NC so I'm just faffing blind, and breaks are kinda important.
( Also it's on PCP so I don't want to fuck something up )
Edited by chopsen at 18:00:38 05-09-2018
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