DIY Page 7

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  • elstoof 31 Mar 2019 09:55:23 23,144 posts
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    Bear in mind that youíll need a set of SDS bits as well, your regular round bits wonít fit. How old is the house, Iím guessing Victorian if youíve got a bay window?
  • robc84 31 Mar 2019 11:44:49 13,562 posts
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    Nah, 1980s. So relatively new I guess for a house. Certainly doesnít feel it at times though!
  • GuybrushFreepwood 31 Mar 2019 12:32:50 945 posts
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    @robc84 mines an 80s house and the external bricks are like steel. Had to get good quality drill bits for my mains powered hammer drill (Bosch) and I had to keep dipping the bit in water every few seconds. Once I had that way of doing things down, it was simple enough.
  • GuybrushFreepwood 31 Mar 2019 12:40:14 945 posts
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    My question, Iíve a dormer bedroom with large double glazed windows fitted. Iíve got horizontal cracks from the bottom corners on the plasterboard. I filled one a couple of weeks ago with filler, but itís come back. Any thoughts?

    I figure itís the weight and stress of the windows and this is an existing weak point (may even have been cut out panels of plasterboard as a similar line goes vertical). I guess I can fill properly and paper over before painting, but just want to make sure Iím not missing anything.

    Window that opens on the side is a little bowed so there was a draught before I put in some insulation. However, the cracks are in both windows (kids room too) and theirs isnít bowed, so I guess itís not related to the bowing (which is slight). Cracks are very thin and have been there at least a couple of years.

    Thanks.
  • elstoof 31 Mar 2019 12:46:48 23,144 posts
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    Might have used concrete bricks rather than clay, which are usually cheaper and a lot harder. I guess in a recess youíd want that extra strength, elsewhere internally you can get away with lighter bricks if thereís not much load - my extension has these superlight blocks on the internal walls which are like foam
  • elstoof 31 Mar 2019 12:49:47 23,144 posts
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    On a roof Iíd wonder itís the temperature changes and expansion causing that sort of cracking. You could try something flexible to fill it. Even silicone, which you can paint over with oil based paint before an emulsion cost on top of that
  • robc84 31 Mar 2019 12:55:34 13,562 posts
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    elstoof wrote:
    Might have used concrete bricks rather than clay, which are usually cheaper and a lot harder. I guess in a recess youíd want that extra strength, elsewhere internally you can get away with lighter bricks if thereís not much load - my extension has these superlight blocks on the internal walls which are like foam
    That makes sense actually. More sense than metal anyway!

    Thanks for all the advice everyone.
  • GuybrushFreepwood 31 Mar 2019 12:55:55 945 posts
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    @elstoof thanks. Itís the ďfrontĒ wall, so not a roof, but it does get cold as itís little more than plasterboard and and air gap and tiles to the outside. Iíd forgotten about flexible filler and that you could paint over with oils.

    Thanks Iíll add that to my ever growing chore list.
  • robc84 1 Apr 2019 13:01:55 13,562 posts
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    Seeing as you chaps were so helpful last time, I have another question.

    I need to fit skirting through the whole of downstairs, and I'm not sure of the best method. A Google search brings up various methods (gluing, nailing, screwing) and I'm not sure which is best. Most of the walls are external masonry.

    My father in law did most of it upstairs and he was screwing to the wall,but that did seem like it was the longest method and I've got quite a big area to get through.

    I've also got the bay window to deal with which should be interesting. I understand the method there is to score into the back of the board, and I'm guessing that will have to be screwed to give it the best connection.

    I'm generally rubbish at DIY so this should be an interesting project :)

    Any tips?
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 13:17:15 23,144 posts
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    Skirting is a real ball ache. Whatís there now, have you removed the old skirting already? Whatís the reason for removing it, have you laid or are you laying new floors?
  • robc84 1 Apr 2019 13:42:20 13,562 posts
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    @elstoof

    Removed the old skirting to lay new floor. Floor is now down so skirting ready to go on.

    Really not looking forward to it...
  • henro_ben 1 Apr 2019 13:58:14 2,383 posts
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    @robc84 Nailing it on is the traditional method pros: quick, relatively easy to pull the skirting off later if you need to, cons: can damage the plaster/skirting when removing.

    No more nails / glue of some kind - pros: very quick, cons: nasty to get the skirting off later, can cause a lot of damage when you do.

    Screwing - pros: easy to remove the boards later, least amount of damage done when doing so, cons: the most time consuming way of putting them up, especially if you want to hide the screw heads & countersink the holes.
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 14:04:21 23,144 posts
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    Screws would be my preference, youíll have plenty of filling to do at the joins to make good anyway so filling over the top of the screws isnít much extra.

    Reason I asked if the floor was down is the easiest job of all is to fit new boards to the existing skirting, then screw a second layer of skirting to the old one to cover the gap. Too late for that now though.

    All I can say is get your mitre cuts consistent and donít worry too much about ďperfectĒ alignment, just go to town with the filler. I hope youíve got plain MDF boards and not an ornate Victorian profile in knotty pine :D
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 14:09:38 23,144 posts
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    Also no need to countersink mdf, just screw in until the heads are sunk
  • henro_ben 1 Apr 2019 14:19:36 2,383 posts
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    @elstoof Eruggh! MDF skirting?! That's just nasty...
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 14:26:07 23,144 posts
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    Nothing wrong with it, youíd never know the difference once itís painted. Unless you do the pine really badly, with bleeding knots through the paint, blowout from the grain, warping boards etc. I wouldnít touch pine skirting or architraves now

    Edited by elstoof at 14:27:28 01-04-2019
  • robc84 1 Apr 2019 14:33:09 13,562 posts
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    @elstoof

    Yeah I think screws are the way to go. So I assume I just drill the holes through the skirting, line it up to the wall then mark the spot on the wall. Drill into wall, wall plug in, screw? 'Simple' as that.

    Assumed I'd need to countersink but if not that will save some time.
  • X201 1 Apr 2019 14:37:04 19,210 posts
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    One other key point when fitting skirting boards is don't get stressed; floors are never level and corners are not at right angles.
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 14:37:29 23,144 posts
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    How was the previous skirting fitted, is there any bits of batten already attached to the brick? You donít need to drill a pilot hole through mdf, the screw will go through fine
  • robc84 1 Apr 2019 15:15:18 13,562 posts
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    Previous was nailed on. Right pain in the arse to get off it was.
  • Nexus_6 1 Apr 2019 15:28:34 4,231 posts
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    What was it nailed on to thought - at the bottom of the wall is there a strip of timber within the wall?
    If so, you can screw in to that batten with your new skirting.

    IF not, you could add a new batten if theres space, or you need to screw in to the brick
  • robc84 1 Apr 2019 16:04:22 13,562 posts
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    Ok I see what you are saying. I believe there was on the internal walls, but on the external I believe it was nailed into the masonry.

    Sure I'll figure it out!

    Thanks as always for the advice.
  • Nexus_6 1 Apr 2019 17:50:19 4,231 posts
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    @robc84

    On the masonry walls then - you could screw through the msg with into the brick with a hammer in fixing. These give good grip and can be taken out later and you donít need to figure how to align the hole with a rawlplug.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6-x-40mm-50-pack/57635?tc=FB9&ds_kid=92700036659728413&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249413&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7YblBRDFARIsAKkK-dKCm319lbBunu07xp2417kTa9WLdqFF__2Y3M8WrlVLzUbz1iaKsUwaAg2QEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  • elstoof 1 Apr 2019 17:58:58 23,144 posts
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    What do you mean external walls, are you fitting skirting to the outside of your house?

    If youíre screwing into masonry, you can position the board then drill a pilot hole big enough to fit a rawlplug through, then go through again with a masonry bit before poking a ďpreloadedĒ screw with the rawlplug on the end, bash it into place and tighten
  • Nexus_6 1 Apr 2019 18:07:09 4,231 posts
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    The outer walls will be double skin brick where the internal walls, partition walls, might be stud or other.
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