@Jeepers I would put a boxing board against the fae of the rafter, dress the membrane over this and down to the lowest part of this vertical and leave it poking down just a touch - 10mm say as a sort of drip. Then put the final boxing board over the other and sandwich it in place. You could run a bead of sealant before this to form a gasket where the nail penetrates for belts and braces.|
Keep going - its exciting to make something!
DIY • Page 3
Ah, I'm with you. That makes sense. So you wouldn't tuck the membrane underneath the soffit, just have it hang down 10mm along the four faces of the box? So when you added the additional boxing board to make the sandwich, you'd have the flap of membrane hanging straight down?
Might there be water collection between the membrane and the sandwich wood? Would that even matter if the sandwich wood was treated?
This seems like a great solution. Thanks!
I wouldnt worry about water getting trapped. Treated timber for sure. You could run a bead of sealant along the top joint too.
You wouldnt see the membrane as your soffit board would obscure it - whatever thickness that is, nail fixed to the underside of the projecting rafter, extend your membrane by that amount
Thanks fella. That's good advice.
I've now stumbled across living roofs. That's the next few hours spent Googling and SketchUping.
Ha! I was actually close to a snidey suggestion of you turfing the roof yesterday
Thought you'd like that!
@Jeepers I meant to say - i think b + q do a sedum roof product. Dont know the max angles right enough....would be lovely.
Lying bastard flat pack instructions. 1 1/2 hours it says. I've been at it for over 4 and I'm still a good hour away. Flaming trundle bastard bed.
Sack it off and go to the pub?
@Jeepers Get thee behind me Satan!
So tempting as it's just round the corner. But I'm also waiting for a delivery so can't leave and besides, my kids are sleeping on this thing tonight, so best not.
One of my cats has come in and curled up on the finished part of the bed and gone to sleep... So not helping!
Hah! I love cats and their contribution to general household tasks.
Maybe finish the bed and reward yourself with a beer at home. Good luck anyway!
Khanivor 44,105 posts
Seen 13 hours ago
Registered 18 years ago
Same solution as to the shed roof
Just caulk the cunt.
And done! Thank fuck for that. Solid five hours to build it. My daughter better like her "sleigh bed with a trundle". I should have tried harder to talk her out of it.
I've another trundle bed to do tomorrow, this one a Hemnes from ikea. God I hope that's easier.
And one of my kids decided to jump on the bed and has smashed part of it. To say I'm annoyed is putting it mildly. Should have sacked off and gone to the pub after all.
I'm broken now!
Spent today clearing a room of boxes and then building a wardrobe and a bench with storage. After that, I decided to 'just look' at the instructions for the hemnes bed (day bed with trundle and storage). Five hours later, I've finally finished it and done my final flat pack of the move.
I'm aching in numerous places, but my daughter is delighted her bedroom is done. Tomorrow I'm just going to get the chicken and veg and wrap stuff and then collapse with my Switch.
Fuck my new shed, the roof over lap felt blew off last night in the wind in deepest Dorset, it never had enough felt nails supplied within the kit and I've forgotten to deal with it. So this morning a miserable trip to B&Q to buy a new roll of roof felt and shit load of longer felt nails, remove the gable batons, clamber across the bloody thing and lay a new section with nails hammered in every 40mm. Oh and it is pissing it down as well so absolutely soaked. £1200 for a 8x10 shed that did not come with enough fixings has seriously pissed me off this morning, luckily the electrics installed for lighting and sockets remained dry.
I've got doors in my new house that are not closing properly. It looks like the doors don't fit the frame. The doors are hollow type, so i can't really sand them too much.
Is this a case of needing to rehang the doors or get new doors (and/or new locks as these don't always close) or sand the frame? Sanding the frame seems easiest, but it's just odd that almost no doors in the house actually close. I can see where the issue is with them, but it needs sanding or rehanging. Rehanging will be tricky sure to needing to use the existing screw holes and doing this alone.
Am i missing something? At least one door handle is not the original and doesn't fit the chiselled groove, so won't shut.
MMMarmite 1,601 posts
Seen 3 hours ago
Registered 13 years ago
Is it just the door catch not actually springing out into the notch? If so Iíd probably try striping the inside of the door frame back to the wood and seeing if it closes properly - over time as people decorate and just paint over the old layer it knocks out the alignment of the door catch.
If you didnít want to do that on all the doors and itís only a little out you could try extending the door notch a little with a dremel or something, but you may end up with doors that rattle.
Thanks. Some doors are so bad they won't get close to closing. These are mainly the door being too tall. The rest seem to be meeting areas of the door frame sooner than other bits and styling the catch getting near the lock. Some are just buggered door handles (mechanism or wrong size).
I've no problem sanding the frame to fix it, just wasn't sure if that was the "right" way. I'll do that.
... After l put up the curtains that have just arrived.
cjb_bjc 2,077 posts
Seen 5 hours ago
Registered 11 years ago
Sanding is never the right option!
Dougs 90,249 posts
Seen 6 hours ago
Registered 16 years ago
Planing is where it's at! or rehanging properly but a plane makes you feel manlier!
Door too tall sounds like someone put a new door on without planing to fit, but seeing as thatís the easier part to do of hanging a door it makes no sense. Plane them down to fit, you hopefully have enough material to remove without hitting the hollow core - if not then youíll hit it, but you need new doors anyway
Although people do some fucking weird DIY stuff in the name of saving a few quid, so things making no sense is pretty normal
Thinking about it, Iím pretty sure the reason the doors will be too tall will be because theyíve put carpet down and discovered the doors no longer go down far enough - has someone chiselled out the door frame to mount the hardware higher up?
No, there's what look like a bunch of reasons for the doors not fitting. New doors which have not been planed at the bottom (can see where the old doors were), doors bowed in the middle (or the frame is, doors not fitting at the top and looking like they never have, new handles (old but refitted) which look they've never fitted because they're fitted wrong or the frame / door is not straight, doors with broken mechanisms, doors with mechanisms which will never close the door (wrong type). Looking round the house, the diy is generally poor, so I think the guy was "just" a muppet.
The too tall doors are in the bathroom, so no carpet and although not the original doors, they've been there a while. I can't understand people who fit doors to bathrooms and toilets that never shut, never mind lock. Just baffling as they had grown up "kids" that lived with them.
Question, why plane when the sander is more precise and less likely to gouge anything? I know it'll take more time and cause more dust, but I think I'll get a better fit that way as it 'seems' to be a corner issue more than the whole thing.
Curtains look good anyway. I even got the pleats right.
Apparently my priority today is changing the outside light (rusty, low wattage and none pir) for something a bit nicer.
Planing will help you keep the door flat and square and will also give you a better finish than sanding alone. Sanding can also cause tearing to the edges of the door if the wood is old or in poor shape. Plus planes are the most fun tools of all.
I've got a question - made a log store recently using pressure treated timber. Because I didn't think, I used the fresh cut ends for the 'feet'. I've ordered some end grain preservative to apply but I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do to reduce the risk of damp and rotting. In my head, I'm picturing some sort of metal sleeve that the feet can sit in, which I could then spatter with silicone sealant at the top to stop water getting in. Something of that sort must exist, right?
It's sitting on paving and right next to a drain, so the feet will inevitably sit in puddled water for much of the year.
Ah, turns out I'm looking for Post Support Shoes. Googling for something when you don't know what it's called is tough.
Pir sensor in the lantern I fitted today (and it took ages) is buggered. I've bypassed it, but it's now just a light switch which is a shame as it was the last in stick so I can't get a replacement and anything new will need a new baseplate and new drill holes.
Oh well, best part of 4 hours that took with all the trying to get it working and it was a right pig to drill...
Edited by GuybrushThreepwood at 19:29:32 20-01-2018
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